Critical thinking, calm communication, rationality, levelheadedness: none of these traits has traditionally been valued in a kitchen. Or maybe they were, but we weren’t listening. It’s not so different from a locker room, where viciousness and anger are glamorized as part of a winning culture. I came from a decent family and had the benefit of a college education. For the most part, I was trained by mentors who were even-keeled, forgiving, and invested in my growth. I also walked away from the cycle early to do something in opposition to tradition. Yet throughout my career, I’ve always been angry. Once I had my own restaurant, the slightest error or show of carelessness from a cook could turn me into a convulsing, raging mass. The only thing that could snap me out of my fits was punching a wall or a steel countertop, anything to cause me some kind of physical pain. Chang, David; Ulla, Gabe. Eat a Peach (p. 71). Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed. Kindle Edition. Chang, David; Ulla, Gabe. Eat a Peach (p. 70). Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed. Kindle Edition.

— david chang  

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