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“I could say it’s been a great adventure,” he says as a warm expression comes over his face. He has an ongoing debate with Nobu Matsuhisa about who has the happier life. Nobu has the restaurant empire, but Oyama gets to handpick his customers. Nobu has celebrity investors and fame around the world, but Oyama has time to golf and recently bought the one toy he wanted—an attention-grabbing Nissan GT-R sports car. Nobu has a full house almost every night, but so does Oyama. “Neither of us ever wins this argument,” Oyama says. “We both end up laughing. We’re doing what we want, and our customers keep coming back. That’s the chef’s dream. Little by little, course by course, mouth by mouth, we do what we love, and customers keep coming back. It’s the life of a happy chef. A little happy, a little lucky—and, OK, so maybe a little crazy.”

— The chef who hides  

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