“Complacency is your enemy. Just because you think you can handle a situation, don't disrespect the fact that it can hit you hard or that you can be the first to fall. When we first started riding Jaws, Maui's monster break called Peahi by the locals, all the best surfers, the guys who had the skill and experience to handle it, were the most conservative. In fact, the more skilled the surfer, the more cautious he was. It was all these less skilled yee-haw guys who would go out and throw themselves into these situations that they really didn't understand. It was a certain kind of ignorance – they didn't have the experience to know exactly what they were getting into. Watching these guys can make it feel like the angels are busy protecting all the fools. That's why if you know what you're doing, you have to be really smart. Read more: http://www.mensjournal.com/magazine/how-to-handle-danger-without-fear-20130417#ixzz2RsktfJYY Follow us: @mensjournal on Twitter | MensJournal on Facebook”
