otherwise classic menu, and announced that La Côte Basque was “Pavillon for the poor.” It was run by the stern Henriette Spalter, Le Pavillon’s former coat-check girl and Soulé’s longtime mistress, who became notorious for her campaign against women in pants, demanding that even presidential daughter Lynda Bird Johnson change into one of the paper skirts the restaurant kept on hand to deal with offenders of its rigid dress code. Nan Kempner, refusing to submit to this humiliation, removed the bottom half of her Yves Saint Laurent pantsuit and wore the top as a tunic. Among the silent majority who toed Madame Henriette’s line to nibble on the superb cold striped bass with green sauce was Pat Nixon, usually accompanied by Pat Mosbacher, the wife of White House chief of protocol and America’s Cup winner Emil “Bus” Mosbacher Jr. Three more Le Pavillon spin-offs followed: La Caravelle in 1960, La Grenouille in 1962, and Lafayette in 1965. The proprietors of the last, Le Pavillon’s former saucier and captain, Jean Fayet, and his wife, Jacqueline, the former cashier, also had very strong opinions about proper attire, banning miniskirts as well as slacks. “I was at Lafayette one day, and Jackie Onassis had her sunglasses up in her hair,” John Fairchild recalled. “And the owner said she didn’t like people who had dark glasses shoved up into their hair and asked her to remove them.”


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