“MARCO DE GRAZIA’S home and winemaking facility stand in the center of what is probably the finest wine land on Etna, varied enough to produce white, red and rosé, and surrounded by acres of lush green vineyards in every direction. De Grazia was older and much more experienced than Cornelissen when they arrived—his reference points from the start were Tuscany and Burgundy. Over a glass of sparkling wine, de Grazia explains how he got here. “When I first tasted Etna wine, even though it was rough and tough, I saw something in it,” he says. “Then I visited. As soon as people come here and see this land, they get what this wine is about. You see the veins of magma. You understand why a tiny plot higher up the slopes is different from the vines next to my house.” De Grazia is on a mission to attract more visitors—he recently opened a tasting facility where anyone can drink his wine after touring his land and cellar—and he also still sells sfuso wine to the locals. “The vineyard I bought had always sold bulk wine,” he says. “I’m determined to continue that tradition. It’s a way to sell honest wine at a good price—and to allow me to keep the best grapes for bottling.” Over the years de Grazia has shared his cellar with other local growers, such as pianist-turned-vintner Girolamo Russo, one of the most promising young talents on the mountain. “We have to work together,” de Grazia says. “Nobody makes much money making wine this way. You do it because you love the place and you love what you’re doing.” ”